
New to growing & showing?
There are Novice classes for daffodils and tulips so why not give it a go? There’s nothing to lose and you can have fun willing on your bulb to bloom and grow.
If you are bamboozled by the daffodil divisions don’t worry, we’ve all been there and some of us still are. Help is at hand – have a look at our daffodil divisions section then pick one (or more) daffodils that you like to look of – there are lots of places that you can buy your bulbs from. Once you have your bulbs, our planting guide will show you how and when to plant them.
Tulips and other flowers in the show don’t have divisions, so you may prefer to start there, however once you’ve chosen the daffodil(s) you like, you’ve pretty much mastered the divisions.
daffodil divisions de-mystified
The Alnwick Spring Show uses the Royal Horticultural (RHS) classification system. There are 13 divisions, which are shown below.
Don't let this put you off, have a look at the pictures, pick one or two that you like and you are on your way to having a go at growing and showing.












More information can be found on the Daffodil Society website or the Royal Horticultural Society System of Classification of Daffodils.


Planting guide for new growers
Plant your bulbs as soon as possible. Until then keep it in a dry, cool and airy place. You can plant directly into the ground or into a pot. The latter is preferable so as to have more control over the flowering time and to avoid extremes of weather but is not essential.

Planting into the ground
Plant at a depth of 3 x the height of the bulb in a sunny or lightly shaded spot. Avoid a windy place. The soil should be moisture retentive but with good drainage (add grit) as daffodils do not like to be waterlogged.
Label the place you have planted the bulb and in spring keep a close eye on bud development as you may need to pick the flower before it is fully out (see Preparation for showing).

Planting into a pot
Ensure the pot you choose is deep enough for the bulb to sit about halfway down it but with the tip of the bulb well below the soil surface. Add crocks or broken polystyrene and grit to the bottom of the pot for drainage. Use good quality compost (preferably John Innes No. 3) mixed with grit or sharp sand. Place the bulb about halfway down the pot and top up with compost. The surface can be dressed with grit to avoid soil splashing onto the flowers.
Label and water. The pot needs to be kept outside, frost free and should not be allowed to dry out or become waterlogged. To avoid the pot freezing, wrap bubblewrap around its sides or plunge into the leaves, bark chips or a box of old compost.

Preparation for showing
Your bulb should be showing a flower bud by early April but depending on the weather you may need to bring it on or hold it back. Generally light and warmth will bring flowering forward and cold and dark will hold it back. A greenhouse, sunny porch or even a refrigerator can be used for this.
The aim for the show is a cut flower, fully out and in perfect condition.

Show time
Bring your bloom to stage at the show according to the staging time shown in the Exhibitors’ Schedule.
Good luck. We hope you will continue to enjoy growing and showing .
Trumpet Daffodil Cultivars
One flower to a stem, corona (trumpet) as long as , or longer than the perianth segments (petals).
Large-cupped Daffodil Cultivars
One flower to a stem; corona (cup) more than one-third but less than equal to the length of the perianth segments (petals).
Small-cupped Daffodil Cultivars
One flower to a stem; corona not more than one-One flower to a stem; corona (cup) not more than one –third the length of the perianth segments (petals)
Double Daffodil Cultivars
One or more flowers to a stem, with doubling of the perianth segments or the corona or both.
Triandrus Daffodils Cultivars
Characteristics of N.Triandrus clearly evident: usually two or more pendant flowers to a stem; perianth segments reflexed.
Cyclamineus Daffodil Cultivars
Characteristics of N. cyclamineus clearly evident: one flower to a stem; perianth segments significantly reflexed; flower at an acute angle to the stem, with very short pedicel (“neck”)
Jonquilla and Apondanthus Daffodil Cultivars
Characteristics of Sections Jonquilla or Apondanthus clearly evident: one to five flowers to a stem; perianth segments spreading or reflexed; flowers usually fragrant.
Tazetta Daffodil Cultivars
Characteristics of Section Tazetta clearly evident: usually three to twenty flowers to a stout stem; leaves broad; Perianth segments spreading not reflexed; flowers fragrant.
Poeticus Daffodils Cultivars
Characteristics of the N. poeticus group and related species clearly evident; Perianth segments pure white; corona very short or disc shaped, not more than one fifth the length of the perianth segments; corona usually with a green and or/yellow centre and red rim, but sometimes wholly or partly of other colours; anthers usually set at two distinct levels; flowers fragrant.
Bulbocodium Daffodil Cultivars
Characteristics of Section Bulbocodium clearly evident; usually one flower to a stem; perianth segments insignificant compared with corona; filament and style are usually curved.
Collar Daffodils
Daffodils with the corona segments opposite the perianth segments; corona segments usually in two whorls of three.
Papillon Daffodils
Split-corona daffodils with the corona segments alternate to the perianth segments; the corona segments usually in a single whorl of six.
Other Daffodil Cultivars
Daffodil cultivars which do not fit the definition of any other division.
Daffodils distinguished solely by botanical name.
All species and wild or reputedly wild variants and hybrids. More information about the classifications can be found on the Daffodil Society website or you can download the Royal Horticultural Society System of Classification of Daffodils.